Surfer Magazine’s portrait of Liz Clark, a 29-year-old who set sail in 2006 on a 40 foot sail boat and is literally living the dream. While listening to Brigitte Bardot.

The three shots that are getting my vote on Surfer’s Magazine “Photo of the year”

Turner pionneered a bunch of breaks in Indonesia, that were simply too out of the way for anyone to confortably explore. Stiching and mending himself and his crew’s reef cuts, living off goats and chickens and collecting rain water. Upon returning from Indonesia in 2005, he was diagnosed with one of the worse staph infections doctors had ever seen, was commatose for a while and underwent hemicraniectomy wherein he lost about 75% of his skull. Chances of survival were next to nil (let alone recovery), but Timmy not only managed to survive but made a full recovery. Advised by doctors to stay away from the tropics as he woulnd’t survive another infection, Timmy went as far away as he could — in the opposite direction. He is now filming the “sequel” to his acclaimed film “Second Thoughts” on Canada’s British Columbia, to be called “Cold Thoughts”. Although his films are slightly mad / manic, I can’t help but be inspired.