Tags: indonesia

Surfing’s an addic­tion. It’s like a sex­ual addic­tion, almost, (…) You’ve gotta get it all the time and you can’t own it and… the fact you can’t own it sucks you into it. And, it’s why so many peo­ple decided it was eas­ier to smug­gle dope and get large amounts of money for a small amount of work and then live off the pro­ceeds and go surf­ing. It caused a lot of peo­ple to go down some dark tracks.

~ Indies Trader’s Mar­tin Daly, in Sea of Darkness

an old fish­ing boat ran dry on padang padang, indone­sia. i’ve surfed here a few times and see­ing this is sur­real.