Surfing’s an addiction. It’s like a sexual addiction, almost, (…) You’ve gotta get it all the time and you can’t own it and… the fact you can’t own it sucks you into it. And, it’s why so many people decided it was easier to smuggle dope and get large amounts of money for a small amount of work and then live off the proceeds and go surfing. It caused a lot of people to go down some dark tracks.
~ Indies Trader’s Martin Daly, in Sea of Darkness
2 years ago, mid-June · * · tags → documentary, drugs, indonesia, Martin Daly, surfing



